Coco Chanel who revolutionized tailoring techniques which were much softer and gave women a much more relaxed and comfortable look and feel. This was a far cry from the more severe and confining clothing structure that women up to this time were accustomed to.
The garment has no predetermined seam allowances. All of the seam lines were thread traced from the draped bodice. It was important to me to use typical couture Chanel inspired techniques throughout the construction with a minimal amount of machine stitching. All buttonholes were stitched by hand using buttonhole twist and filled with gimp. A chain to weigh down the garment was included at the hem. Classic quilting was used throughout the body and sleeves. The fashion fabric is a French style tweed viscose, chosen for matching the plaid, fully lined in silk charmeuse, including the pockets. Over the course of six weeks, it took approximately 70 hours to complete. The 3-part sleeve has working buttonholes and is a scaled down version of one from a Vogue Claire Shaeffer pattern.
To try something new, and I wanted to create a garment in half scale, that when photographed, would appear to be a full scale model.
Although I had learned basic draping techniques from London couturier Jon Moore, I had never actually put them into practice, even in a full scale model. This gave me an opportunity to combine my newly acquired love of couture hand sewing techniques with draping on a scale which was more manageable than a full size garment. It is enjoyable to slow down the pace of construction with thread tracing, handmade buttonholes and couture sewing, knowing that the inside of the garment reflects the outside that the public sees.
By all means, start the process as soon as possible. Half size garments do not mean, half the time in construction. In fact it is necessary to rethink the entire process from start to finish. You want the resulting garment to look as though it is full scale. It is not easy to manipulate fabric in such a way that it still drapes well and does not appear stiff. The planning and execution take about the same amount of time.